“I want to talk about natural black hair, and how it’s not just hair. I mean, I’m interested in hair in sort of a very aesthetic way, just the beauty of hair, but also in a political way. What it says, what it means.”
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.
In 1997, hairstylist Andre Walker created a numerical grading system for human hair types. The Andre Walker Typing System classifies kinky hair as “type 4”, (there are other types of hair defined as type 1 for straight hair, type 2 for wavy hair, and type 3 for curly hair, with letters A,B and C used as indicators of the degree of coil variation in each type), with the subcategory of type 4C being most exemplary of the afro-textured hair. Each strand of this hair type grows in a tiny angle – like helix shape.
However, kinky hair is often difficult to categorize because of the many different variations among individuals; pattern ;( mainly right coils), pattern size, density( sparse to dense) strand diameter (fine medium, coarse) and feel (cottony, woolly, spongy)
The Afro-textured hair is most popular in Africa, mainly in the Sub-Saharan Africa and the African diaspora and in some parts of Oceania and South East Africa.
Historically, many cultures in continental Africa developed hairstyles that defined statuses, or identity, in regards to age, ethnicity, wealth, social rank, marital status, religion, fertility, adulthood, health. Hair was carefully groomed by those who understood the aesthetic standard, as the social implications of hair grooming were a significant part of community life.
Dense. Thick. Clean. Long. Short. Healthy. All sought after by black women.
Evolved over the centuries, been through different cycles, Afro-textured hair has played a major role in defining a black woman. Slavery been a root of the ups and downs of the pride that we posses to this day.
The politics of Afro-textured hair totally represents embracing one’s natural self and for some, it is a simple matter of style preference. Amongst African tribes hair was not just hair but an external representation of belonging. It shares a story of identity that represents belonging in the face of separation.
The natural hair journey can be long and daunting. It is also one of those things you don’t know how difficult and time consuming and how much TLC is involved till you’re in possession of it. When it comes to hair, all women can relate. Whether you’re black or white or Asian, we all agonize over how to wear it, what color it should be, and cringe at the thought of hours of pain that you have to sit through to look “decent” or have an aesthetically pleasing look.
For me, hair has always been an important part of a woman’s dignity. Chopped part of my hair after I begun to grow it out, after senior high school, because my hair was too soft,it’s laughable to me now. I’d put shea butter in my hair but I for sure didn’t give it all the TLC it needed. I started to take care of my hair properly in university, my roommate was helpful in the process and I’ve been in love with the whole process ever since. It’s like bonding time with my hair. I love washdays even though I procrastinate a thousand times to finally do it. It is one of the best feelings in the world to wash my own hair and have water run down from my scalp over my face and have it trickle down. I dance in the shower with my music blasting on the side. I’ve grown to be steady with it, too patient for that matter. I’m not even the biggest about natural hair, but like J.Cole says, “ love yours” so you know.
Natural hair can be again, daunting, blow out your hair, it’s big and pretty, sleep on it, the next day without wrapping it or being extra cautious, or your scarf and bonnet not too tight and waking up with these somewhere in your sheets, could be the most annoying thing. Your hair literally is frizzier than ever, and the process begins again.
And so today, I sought to share my story with whoever would listen, but of course with some history.
Corporate environment and natural hair in Ghana is not as mutually exclusive but you’d get a few comments been passed around. Good and bad. I wore my hair out to work and someone says to “ it’s not my place to say but that’s a lot of hair all over the place like in the old days and I think you should do something about it” What nerve, to be honest. Do you know how much work and energy that went into this hair, do you know how much my arms hurt? Do you know how very content l am with myself? If you don’t shove your opinion somewhere and go and sit all the way at the back ?!
I know that there are a number of black women who have been in my position or worse. And it isn’t going to stop. For young black women, hair is not just something to play with, it is something that is laden with messages, and it has the Power to dictate how others treat you, and, in turn, how you feel about yourself. Natural hair could lead to acceptance or rejection from certain groups and social classes and it’s styling could provide the possibility of a career. Prior to the statement uttered to me, it has always been imperative to examine the tensions that come along with wearing your natural hair out to work and with those who have provided acceptance and genuinely love that we wear our natural hair out.
The flip side is, dampening someone’s confidence. Having millions of black women that end up not appreciative of their hair and the way they look with it. The issue is actually not about a woman wearing their natural hair out or getting locs, putting braids in or wearing a wig. The issue is with entitled men and women who think their unsolicited opinions matter. Mind your businesses, will you ? Let everyone feel comfortable in what they would. To each their own.
Anytime anyone passes a deliberate derogatory comment about your hair, whisper to yourself, “ sister mine, I’m going to get myself some ice cream for that” it would make you feel better, I promise.

